Dobson via forum mentions:
I am constantly concerned with clipping the clouds in my images. The trick is to meter to them, and let everything else fall where it may. You can recover the heck out of shadows.
What I do is shoot a bright patch of sky and check my histogram to make sure I have minimal blinkies (a little bit is to be expected). Then I just shoot all day at that exposure (unless the sky changes or there’s no sky in a particular image). It’s easy: meter once, shoot all day.
This technique also works great for summertime snow. Meter the snow once, shoot all day.
Oh, do this at the lowest ISO possible for the optimal dynamic range.
===
RPavich mentions via the forum:
Here is the deal…
On any photo you take, no matter what the subject is you have to think about the exposure;
1.) Does the dynamic range exceed the capability of the camera to record it in one shot?
2.) Where am I going to “place” the exposure?
If the dynamic range exceeds the camera’s ability to record the image without blowing out part of it (or part of it dropping into shadow) then you need to decide what your exposure will consist of; a properly exposed subject but the sky is blown?
The subject in silhouette but the sky properly exposed?
Both exposed correctly via some means like merged bracketed shots or HDR?
It’s not “wrong” that the sky is blown, it just “is” and if you don’t want that effect, then you can shoot to expose the sky correctly or wait until the sky and your subject equalize in light strength or expose for the sky and “light” your subject by artificial means.
Make sense?
===
